The Sports Photo Guy

54 responses so far ↓

• 1 Aqualung // Feb 29, 2008 at 3:30 pm

  Yup, I think it’s a great feature and have also been using it for shooting basketball. I’m curious, you only shoot 1/320? I’ve found blurring even at 1/400 and now usually shoot 1/500.

  Dave Black is also a huge fan of AutoISO, even on the D3…he talks about shooting football where a player is running from the sunny, middle of the field to the endzone which is in shadow…

• 2 The Sports Photo Guy // Feb 29, 2008 at 4:08 pm

  I like 320-400 for basketball action, and here’s why: it will freeze ‘peak’ action shots (top of a jump shot or layup, for example) while leaving just a hint of motion blur in fast-moving shots (driving the lane). And dunks – usually a frozen player with a little blur to the ball and net. Awesome!

• 3 G.N. // May 20, 2008 at 6:42 am

  I have tried it on my D200, just out of curiosity, and it works perfectly – depending on the situation where needed and/or out of a cretive perspective. Really gives you the ability to “fire-and-forget”, although still having control over the exposure.

• 4 G.N. // May 31, 2008 at 6:01 am

  I better post a corection to my coment of May 20. The Auto ISO on the D200 maxes out at 1600. But still … it’s a lot of fun!

• 5 Jason // Jun 28, 2008 at 9:17 am

  Thank you! This is a great tip. I’ve always been irritated by the 1/250 minimum shutter speed of the auto-iso feature.

• 6 Jim Gunson // Jul 15, 2008 at 12:20 pm

  I appreciate this feature, but I’d like to be able to render it permanently inactive for manual mode. When travelling I’m faced with two situations: wildlife and panoramas. I want S mode and auto ISO for the former and M mode for the latter without auto ISO. This means two adjustments and naturally I forget the ISO issues. The solution may be to change my own firmware, but in this day of camera convenience, I’d like to be able have auto ISO disabled in M mode as part of the D300 firmware.

• 7 The Sports Photo Guy // Jul 15, 2008 at 8:42 pm

  I hear you; but as much as we’d all like to customize the camera’s settings to the nth degree, that’s just not possible. However, this sort of black/white preference is just what the custom setting banks are for. If all your dealing with are wildlife and panoramas, it seems to me like you could set a shooting and custom setting back for each, and still have two banks left over!

• 8 Steve // Nov 4, 2008 at 6:56 am

  Can your D300 adjust the ISO in 1/6 steps? Mine only allows ISO step changes of 1/3 steps in the custom settings menu.

• 9 The Sports Photo Guy // Nov 4, 2008 at 7:27 am

  The 1/6 step is only in ISO Auto Sensitivity Control – manually you can only set it in 1/3 steps.

• 10 Judson Crossland // Dec 21, 2008 at 8:35 pm

  Hey there Sports Guy… I have a couple of questions for ya… can you shoot me an email sometime? Love your site BTW.

• 11 The Sports Photo Guy // Dec 21, 2008 at 9:00 pm

  Sure, but why not post them here for all to see?

• 12 Mike Couto // Jan 18, 2009 at 11:17 am

  Hi,
  I have been considering getting the D300. I have a D2h for sports right now, but would like a better res image to work with. My only apprehension w/respect to the D300 regards shutter lag, especially for basketball. Would you comment on that for me?

  Mike

• 13 The Sports Photo Guy // Jan 18, 2009 at 11:31 am

  Personally, I haven’t noticed an issue with shutter lag at all. And the D300′s AF system is faster and more responsive than the D2H’s. I shot with a D2H for several years and I had originally intended to keep that body when I first got my D300, but I replaced it almost immediately with another D300.

• 14 Mike Couto // Jan 19, 2009 at 5:25 pm

  Hey Sportsphotoguy,

  Just another quick reply to say that I just ordered a D300 with MB-D10 vertical grip. I imagine I can also use the battery that I have here for my D70 and the en-el4s that I use with my D2h.

  I wonder if I will get 8fps with the en-el4 in the D300 or If I need the en-el4a to do that.

  It will be fun getting to know this camera based on all you and others have said about it.

  Mike Couto
  mcphotoguy

• 15 The Sports Photo Guy // Jan 19, 2009 at 5:44 pm

  I use my garden-variety EN-EL4 (original D2H issue) in the grip with no problems and get not only 8 fps but close to 5,000 frames on a single charge. Some 3rd-party batteries also work; see the D300 Battery Compatibility article.

• 16 Mike Couto // Jan 19, 2009 at 5:48 pm

  That’s super. One of en-el4s is the Lenmar model which works fine with the d2h. I assume, then, that it will do fine with the mb-d10 grip.

  Thanks for the speedy response.

  mike

• 17 The Sports Photo Guy // Jan 19, 2009 at 6:01 pm

  That would be a reasonable, but incorrect, assumption. Check the article I linked to above. The only EN-EL4 replacement that works in the MB-D10 is the Phottix Kosmo. Compatibility with the D2H does not mean compatibility with the MB-D10.

• 18 Mike Couto // Jan 20, 2009 at 3:49 pm

  If I might pick your brain once more – the mb-d10 arrived with a double battery holder and an en-el3e holder which does not accept the en-el3 that came with the D70 that I have.
  A holder for the en-el4 battery is optional and about the same price as another en-el3e battery.

  Which scenario will give me the most battery power? In other words am I better off getting another en-el3e to use in the holder provided or getting the Bl-3 holder for the en-el4 battery I already have?

  Thanks,
  Mike Couto

• 19 The Sports Photo Guy // Jan 20, 2009 at 3:52 pm

  The EN-EL4 will definitely give you the most “juice” in the MB-D10.

• 20 Nick Hayton // May 4, 2009 at 11:44 am

  Just a note that if you upgrade your firmware on the D300 the shutter speed on Auto ISO goes to 1/500

• 21 The Sports Photo Guy // May 5, 2009 at 7:39 am

  Actually, you can set the minimum shutter speed for Auto ISO all the way up to 1/4,000 after the firmware upgrade. Doesn’t really change the way this “trick” works, but does give you more control when using Auto ISO with other shooting modes.

• 22 Roller Derby Starts Again! | Photography by Ed Selby // Dec 8, 2009 at 11:34 pm

  [...] shoot with a Nikon D300 equipped with a variety of lenses and an SB800. I use the high speed ISO trick set to 3200 max and set the camera to shutter priority – usually around 125; however, I am a [...]

• 23 Gabe Navar // Dec 10, 2009 at 7:26 am

  Just Learning, Nice Trick. I picked up a D90 and it lets me do this to 1/2000 floor. I am setting it at 1/320 for now. I got a lot to learn. Should I shoot in P mode with this or Shutter mode so that I can adjust the shutter as needed.

• 24 The Sports Photo Guy // Dec 10, 2009 at 8:01 am

  Shoot manual! Set your aperture to f2.8 or f4, and your shutter speed to 1/1000 or thereabouts; you’ll want a shutter that fast for soccer. (Well, if it’s youth soccer, you can go down to about 1/500 or so). Then let the ISO float automatically.

• 25 Jack Tilley // Feb 18, 2010 at 8:18 am

  Hi, Great site, plenty of info.
  First time on your site, and have a Nikon D300
  being new to all Digital jargon can you use Aperture priority with Auto ISO. for Wildlife, my lens is nikon 80/400 which i have some very decent pictures with. Regards, Jack Tilley

• 26 The Sports Photo Guy // Feb 18, 2010 at 8:35 am

  Absolutely…that’s a classic scenario where auto ISO comes in handy. Unlike shooting in manual exposure, there’s much less chance of accidental overexposure in aperture priority mode.

• 27 Sam DeRosa // Apr 1, 2010 at 4:38 pm

  Great Site and Tips…. I have 2 sons playing D-III Lacrosse and I just bought a D-300s with the 70-200 f2/8 vr II lens. Shot it for the first time mid day bright sunny day. Didn’t have time to read much about it. Results were disapointing. After some reading and tweaking I Shot it last night under the lights…. Wow what a difference. I still know I have a lot to learn with this camera/lens combo. But here’s what I used. ISO auto with min shutter speed selected at 1/200. A priority. Aperature set at f2.8, AF at 9 point, AE matrix. Mostly good results…. Some Great! It is such a fast sport its easy to miss the shot or for the camera to get fooled and miss the focus with out any depth of field. I’m thinking using the auto iso feature in the daytime with the lens stopped down should help.

  Thanks for a great site

  Regards, Sam DeRosa

• 28 The Sports Photo Guy // Apr 2, 2010 at 8:20 pm

  I would keep that lens at f2.8 or f4. As you get better tracking the action, you won’t miss the extra depth of field stopping down brings you, and will really appreciate how the fast aperture blurs the background.

• 29 Mike Carnes // Jun 5, 2010 at 1:52 pm

  ok so I set my minimum shutter speed to 1/500s and when in auto iso the shutter speed will stop drop below that why?

• 30 The Sports Photo Guy // Jun 6, 2010 at 11:48 am

  If the minimum shutter speed you’ve chosen isn’t sufficient for proper exposure, the camera will ignore that setting. In other words, it won’t let you under-expose.

• 31 Sam DeRosa // Jun 9, 2010 at 11:56 am

  Thanks for the additional tips. I do like the results when the background is blurred.

• 32 Jay Graham // Nov 1, 2010 at 6:49 pm

  Was wondering if you prefer a d300 or a d3 for shooting sports, especially football and lacrosse? Tried a d300 and had some trouble in p mode. ISO was locked in at 1100 and results were mixed. What setting do you recommend where the camera can do the work?

  Thanks! I’m a beginner, so any help is appreciated.

• 33 The Sports Photo Guy // Nov 2, 2010 at 7:10 am

  Yikes! Get it out of “P” mode – yes, you can have the camera do most of the work, but it can’t do all of it. What I recommend to novices is to put the camera in aperture-priority mode (“A”) and set the aperture to the widest (lowest number) that your lens offers. Set ISO as low as you can, but keep your shutter speed faster (higher number) than 500 (1/500 sec). If you see “HI” in your viewfinder instead f a shutter speed, choose a higher f-number or a lower ISO. D300 is more than capable of producing great sports photos; no need for a D3 (which isn’t any more novice-friendly than a D300, perhaps less so!). Hope this helps.

• 34 skip // Nov 26, 2010 at 11:07 pm

  Hey – I just wanted to touch base with you about this ISO trick. I’ve been using it since I got my D300 almost a year ago, and it’s fooking great. I shoot a lot of softball, and have gotten a lot of really good shots. I like being able to muck with the aperture and shutter speed, and know that I’ve still got a good chance at a properly exposed picture. Thanks again!

• 35 Rick Dayton // Dec 22, 2010 at 7:28 am

  Wondering if the Auto ISO will work on some of the lower end Nikon bodies like the D70s or the D90. I know there are many differences in the firmware (not to mention hardware) and am curious if anyone has ever had much success with it on the other Nikon gear.

• 36 Jim // Dec 24, 2010 at 4:36 am

  “If you see “HI” in your viewfinder instead f a shutter speed, choose a higher f-number or a lower ISO.” I am using my f1.8 35mmG. I got this today. So, I should choose like an f2.8 or lower ISO to like 200 if it was at 400? Great tips.

  One other thing. If I am using aperture mode, what should I have the minimum shutter speed?

  While I have you..one other thing please. What shutter speeds and sync speeds should my flash be at? The flash shutter speed is 1/60 (that’s the fastest) but I must not be understanding how to use it.

  Your tips are awesome. Thank you for sharing.

• 37 Jason Durst // Dec 28, 2010 at 5:39 pm

  Question to sports guy? I shoot car racing at night with some to bad lighting systems at tracks. I just got a D300 and the 70-200mm F2.8 VR lens. I used a olympus 4/3 system before this. I use a Norman 400B flash. I would shoot M with a 1/200 or 1/250 F 2.8 Iso around 400 to 600. Could I use the Auto ISO that you talk about with the Norman 400B? What would you do? Please give me some advice the racing season starts in April around here. Thank you

• 38 The Sports Photo Guy // Dec 29, 2010 at 7:42 am

  Auto ISO doesn’t work so well with big strobes – just not responsive enough. If Auto ISO has a weakness, it is that it’s occasionally a frame behind in fast action sequences at 8 fps. The flash duration is so quick that the camera simply doesn’t have time to adjust. It’s different when using an i-TTL capable flash – the preflashes do the trick.

• 39 meno // Sep 3, 2011 at 6:37 am

  Hi,

  I have a wedding in a couple of hours, and hope you can get an answer back to me asap. I will using three strobes ina church, as well as, the SB-8oo on the D300.. Would auto ISO make the necessary adjustments in manual exposure situations you’ve described? What’s the correct way to set the manual exposure in this instance?

• 40 The Sports Photo Guy // Sep 3, 2011 at 7:10 am

  Unfortunately, Auto ISO doesn’t work so neatly with flash. “Dumb” strobes are definitely out, and even with i-TTL flash Auto ISO just can’t precisely adjust the ISO to the situation the way it can with ambient light alone. I’d pick ISO 400 or 800 and shoot more conventionally in this situation.

• 41 Rick // Nov 2, 2011 at 11:01 am

  Thanks for the info on the D300…..I have a question why would the mirror stay up sometimes and other times not?When no lens is attached the mirror comes down every time but when i attach my 17-55mm it sometimes remains up until I depress the shutter?….Thanks for any advice…..Rick

• 42 The Sports Photo Guy // Nov 2, 2011 at 7:09 pm

  That doesn’t sound right…although I’ve accidentally activated Live View on the back and wondered what was wrong. If you’ve got your eye glued to the viewfinder, that could easily be what you’re describing.

• 43 Bill Ewe // Dec 8, 2011 at 11:11 pm

  just got a d300s and tried shooting my son skateboarding……all images blurred..have a sigma 18-50 mm lens f.2.8-4.5 very novice as far as technical stuff how do I set up camera to shoot skating in skatepark and eventually my sons playing football, soccer, and baseball….please help

• 44 The Sports Photo Guy // Dec 8, 2011 at 11:26 pm

  Put your D300s in “S” (shutter priority) mode, rotate the main command dial until a high number like “500″ (1/500 sec) or “1000″ (1/1000 sec) appears on the LCD, and blast away. Be sure to set auto focus to “AF-C” to track moving subjects. And last but not least…read the manual! It’s thick and intimidating, but explains things very well.

• 45 Muk // Dec 16, 2011 at 5:04 am

  I have a problem with my D300, the shutter is lagging and I don’t know how to correct it. Please help?

• 46 The Sports Photo Guy // Dec 16, 2011 at 9:18 am

  What exactly do you mean by ‘lagging’? Under what conditions does this occur?

• 47 Karl Rottmann // Dec 18, 2011 at 10:16 pm

  Hi,

  What is your ideal shutter speed for wrestling on the D300?

• 48 The Sports Photo Guy // Dec 19, 2011 at 2:17 am

  Loaded question! Depends on what I’m trying to achieve. For stopping the action, the sky’s the limit; but realistically, 1/800 would be “ideal.” I’m seldom able to reach that, unfortunately, given the dismal lighting that exists most places. 1/250 is generally good enough to freeze the action with flash or strobes, again, given the poor ambient lighting (which works to our advantage in this case).

• 49 prathap.s // Jan 23, 2012 at 12:25 am

  Loaded question! Depends on what I’m trying to achieve. For stopping the action, the sky’s the limit; but realistically, 1/800 would be “ideal.” I’m seldom able to reach that, unfortunately, given the dismal lighting that exists most places. 1/250 is generally good enough to freeze the action with flash or strobes, again, given the poor

• 50 Matthew // Feb 1, 2012 at 12:37 am

  I just discovered this feature too with my loaned d300. I cannot wait to get some perfectly exposed indoor basketball shots tomorrow night! My old d40 never had any sort of feature like this, and it made PP so much more time consuming!

  Given the fact that the d40 is more noisy at 1600 ISO than the d300 is at 3200, I can finally shoot at f/4 with at least a 1/500 speed. Every. Single. Time.

• 51 Alma Leigh // Apr 25, 2012 at 9:12 pm

  Hey there! I was wondering if your recommendations for shooting basketball and other fast-paced indoor sports would work for an evening baseball game from 8 pm to about 10 with lighting around the filed. I shoot baseball shots of all the teams in my son’s league and this is the first year they have played late in the evening. I need help please?

• 52 Alma Leigh // Apr 25, 2012 at 9:14 pm

  I forgot to mention I am shooting a D300s

• 53 The Sports Photo Guy // Apr 26, 2012 at 7:20 am

  Night baseball is challenging, because you want a faster shutter speed than basketball and the lighting is usually worse. I’d start with a shutter speed of 1/500 and let the ISO on your D300s range all the way to 3200. If that doesn’t work, you may need a faster lens. Flash won’t help.

• 54 Alma Leigh // Apr 26, 2012 at 2:05 pm

  Thanks so much. Going to give it a whirl tonight. The first game will be at six so I don’t have to worry about it.

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