
Caught Stealing. 1/1600 @ f4, ISO 1250, Sigma 120-300/f2.8.
Women’s fast-pitch softball is an interesting sport with some important differences from baseball. The D300 has a number of features that are well-suited to capturing the action.
One thing I relied on photographing the championships this year was the Secret D300 High-Speed Auto ISO Trick. This allowed me to set my preferred shutter speed (usually 1/1600) as well as aperture (f4 or f2.8) and the camera would automatically adjust the aperture to fit lighting and scene conditions. 1/1600 is a good speed for women’s fast-pitch, as this will usually show an ever-so-slight amount of ball movement while freezing other aspects of the action.

Release. 1/1250 @ f2.8, ISO 900, AF-S Nikkor 80-200/f2.8D.
Other settings I used are as follows (where they differ from factory defaults):
Shooting Menu
- Quality: JPG Normal - Really more than enough quality; I find the D300’s out-of-camera JPGs are just about perfect.
- Image Size: L - Make every pixel count!
- JPEG Compression: Quality
- White Balance: Auto (varies by location, of course)
- Picture Control: Standard - I like this for sports, natural yet bright colors and decent skin tones.
- Sharpening +5
- Saturation +2
- Color Space: Adobe RGB
- Active D-Lighting: Normal/Low - Active D-Lighting is the bomb!
- High ISO NR: Off - In-camera NR is better than the D200’s “cartoonish” look, but I still prefer NeatImage for high-ISO images.
- ISO auto sensitivity control: On - Thanks to the Secret D300 High-Speed Auto ISO Trick, this is a very useful setting! I allow ISO to float all the way up to 3200 depending on the lighting conditions.
Custom Settings
- a1 AF-C priority selection: Release + focus - I find that when shooting at the greater distances involved in outdoor sports, giving the D300 just a bit more time to acquire and lock focus is useful.
- a3 Dyanmic AF area: 51 points (3D-tracking) - It’s amazing how useful and accurate this mode can be. With players generally spaced widely apart, it’s easy to lock on. And the 3D-tracking is extremely useful for keeping the focus on, for example, the pitcher’s eyes during a herky-jerky windup motion.
- a4 Focus tracking with lock-on: Long
- d2 Viewfinder grid display: On
- d10 MB-D10 battery type: FR6 - I keep a battery tray loaded with AA lithiums as a long-term backup power source.
- e1 Flash sync speed: 1/250 (Auto FP) - Gives me maximum flash flexibility.
- e2 Flash shutter speed: 1/30 - If I’m shooting flash I will likely have a VR lens mounted (18-200).
- e7 Bracketing order: under/meter/over - It only makes sense…
- f1 Multi-selector center button
- Shooting: Select center focus point - Especially with so many to choose from, I need to get back on center quickly!
- Playback: Show histograms - I like my cameras to behave consistently with one another.
- f3 Photo info/playback: On - See above.
- f4 Assign FUNC. button: FV lock (button press) - Consistently use function button for this function.
- f9 No memory card: Lock - Yes, I’ve shot games with no card (or no film) in the camera, so I always set this function!
I also found myself dialing in a little exposure compensation: +0.3 of a stop during an overcast game, and +0.7 of a stop when shooting into a bright, early evening sun. I find these values fairly consistent to use with the D300’s matrix metering. I also took advantage of sun’s backlighting to get some under-exposed shots (dialing in -0.3 of a stop).

Windup. 1/1600 @ f4, ISO 900, Sigma 120-300/f2.8.
- Caught Stealing.
- Release.
- Windup.
- The tag.
- High heat.
- Warmups.
- Spirit.
- Take the field.
- Delivery.











7 responses so far ↓
1 Allen // Sep 10, 2008 at 8:06 pm
Great pics, finally a web site with recommended settings. I need some advice on setting my d300 for girls club soccer, trying p mode with 51 3d, 21 and 9 AF but alot still blurry, any recommendations? using a 18-200 vr lens
thanks , great site
2 The Sports Photo Guy // Sep 10, 2008 at 8:31 pm
21 is what I’d recommend, but the problem may really be the 18-200: its AF system is not really designed for sports action and that may be what is holding you back. You may have better luck with a longer zoom in the 70-300 range. Also, be sure the blur is not due to your shutter speed: you’ll want speeds in the range of 1/500 or better.
3 Allen // Sep 12, 2008 at 4:28 am
thanks for the recommendation, i have that expensive 70-200 lens on order, i’ll also try shutter speeds, i guess in the manual setting mode.
4 Lawrie Robertson // Sep 13, 2008 at 10:06 am
I purchased a D300 after using a D70 for several years. I shoot cross country and track & field and have struggled to find just right settings for shooting one runner in a deep pack of many. Based on the comment above about my 18-200 VR II, I am switching to my older Nikkor 70-210 after several blurred shots with the 18-200.
It would be great if you wrote an article on shooting a crowded outdoor spot (like XC) in mixed light circumstances. Thank you for your wonderful articles.
5 The Sports Photo Guy // Sep 13, 2008 at 6:44 pm
For XC, I’d stick with 9-point continuous AF; but more importantly, accurate framing is required. Be sure your selected AF sensor is directly on your subject prior to activating autofocus.
6 Lawrie Robertson // Sep 30, 2008 at 10:05 pm
I have found that Nikkor 70-210 has been brighter and more accurate with my D300 in shooting cross country competitions. I did follow your advice with very good results. I set the picture control on Standard with a extra sharpening and found that the runners came alive. Thanks for your assistance.
I also agree with Ken Rockwell’s recommendation to reset before each day of shooting.
Lawrie
7 Steve // Nov 4, 2008 at 10:56 am
I have been using the 18-200 VR with my son’s little league with great results. I am still learning the settings. I am far from optimal on picture control and sharpness. However, I find the AF/exposure to be very accurate with spot focussing/continuous servo/center metering/auto iso while shooting in S or M mode. Generally at 1/640 or greater shutter speed. I find any blur issues occur mainly a result of a) movement in my camera hold while moving to catch a scene or b) forgetting to hold the lens correctly (palm underneath).
I have similar good fortune on vacations snatching my son out of crowds. However, in general with Auto area focus I have some blur issues at times with moving objects. I am thinking of moving to Dynamic area focus at times I do not want to use only spot focus.
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